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The Budget Traveler
Gird thy pocketbook lest it hemorrhage, for you are coming to Shanghai!
Be not surprised, oh Budget Traveler, that this city proudly striving
for the Chinese consumerism/materialism crown (Hong Kong threatens),
offers little to foreigners in the way of budget accommodation. If you
find a legal place to sleep for less than 300 RMB per night, count
yourself lucky. All over China, prices are inflated due to government
regulation of where foreigners may stay. Ostensibly this is to protect
you and offer you the comfort you are accustomed to, but we cynically
suspect the government just wants to know the whereabouts of all its
"foreign friends."
The most feasible options for budget accommodation in Shanghai are the
following:
Pujiang Hotel
15 Huangpu Lu, Tel: 63246388
With dorm beds for 55 RMB per night (and doubles for 330), the Pujiang
offers the cheapest accommodation in town. Considering its good
location -- just across Suzhou Creek from the Bund, practically a
stone's throw from the Huangpu river -- and its old-timey neighborhood,
the Pujiang is not a bad bargain even for the price of a double. Once
known as the Astor House Hotel, it stands near Shanghai Mansions and
the old (and present) Russian consulate. The Zhapu Lu corridor of
restaurants -- a neon jungle nightspot -- is not far off.
The Music Conservatory (Yinyue Xueyuan)
20 Fenyang Lu, Tel: 64372577
The matron here claims over the telephone that only double rooms are
available, at 200 RMB a night. But considering that you will be housed
in a dormitory building, you should be able to scrounge up a dormitory
room once you're there. Just off Huaihai Lu, the Conservatory is nearby
Shanghai's ritziest shopping district, as well as the subway line. From
the train station take the subway to the Shaanxi Lu stop.
Changyang Hotel
1800 Changyang Lu, Tel: 65434890
Way out there in the northeast of the city, almost to the Yangpu Bridge,
is the Changyang Hotel offering doubles for 250 RMB and up. To get
there from the train station you can ride bus #70 for about an hour. To
and from the Bund you can ride bus #22 for a half hour.
What you can't save on accommodation in Shanghai you may be able to
make up in other areas, since the city offers abundant things to see and
experience (if not "do") for cheap or absolutely gratis. Most important
is to choose the right area of town, go there, and then make sure you
experience what is there. How many travelers must have stood on a
Shanghai street crowded with a thousand people, a hundred shops,
snarling traffic, and declared, "There's nothing here!"
Below are listed some of the hotspots of the masses, and other points
of interest where you can (cheaply) experience as much of Shanghai as
your senses can assimilate.
DAYLIFE:
The Bund -- All Shanghai sights lists begin here. Stroll the
kilometer-long embankment and view the murky river. Count the passing
ships (some of them very large). Gaze across at the towering Pudong
skyline. Notice how the river has now risen above the level of Nanjing
Lu. Meet the English-speaking photographers, paper-cutters, postcard
ladies, students, "coffee" girls and, oh yes, 10,000 other
representatives of the masses. From here cross through the underpass to
. . .
Nanjing Lu --
Stroll it up to five kilometers. It is full enough of
department stores and specialty shops, restaurants and fast food joints,
to last you a full afternoon and evening. Merchandise is cheap, sensory
bombardment constant.
People's Square --
Seemingly the only broad expanse in the city,
spreading before the newly built Museum, People's Square is now perhaps
the most popular place for city residents to unwind. Watch the men fly
beautiful handmade kites, see the couples waltz, observe the
only-children with their doting parents. Quite centrally located, the
Square also offers an interesting panorama of Shanghai's skyline old and
new. Adjacent the Square is People's Park.
Yuyuan Garden -- Probably a must-visit for its containment of shopping,
crowds, specialty foods, and an authentic somewhat peaceful Chinese
garden all within a small area, Yuyuan Garden needn't pain your
pocketbook. Check out the adjacent alleys, outside the complex proper,
for a glimpse of typical Shanghai shikumen housing.
Suzhou Creek -- If you have not yet glimpsed the face of the infamous
Communist-industrial nightmare, follow Suzhou Creek a ways. It will
take you on a tour of river life, pollution, run-down streets,
monolithic factories some of which have become so ugly and degenerated
that they are coming full circle into a kind of exquisite beauty. (The
author personally considers this one of the most likely areas for
interesting -- not to say "beautiful" -- photography in the city.)
Tour buses
-- A good way to see Shanghai is on the red Jin Jiang Tour Bus, which leaves from
the side entrance of the Garden Hotel on Mao Ming Nan Lu, just opposite the old
Jin Jiang Hotel. They leave about every half hour, and you can buy a ticket on
board. The price should be around 20 yuan.
The bus follows a route that passes by People's Square, stops in front of the
Shanghai Museum, the Orient Pearl TV Tower in Pudong, the Yao Han Department
Store,and then to the Nanpu Bridge. From the base, you can take the elevator up
and walk along the bridge. It then visits the Old Chinese City / Yu Garden, back
to People's Square again, then back to the Jin Jiang Hotel.
You can get off at any stop and reboard a later bus. Remember to save your
tickets.
NIGHTLIFE:
Yunnan Road Night Market -- Along Nanjing Lu less than a kilometer west
of the Bund, the Night Market offers a wide variety of food at
rock-bottom prices. Always lively, it is a fair spectacle and sure to
give you an authentic taste of Shanghai.
Wujiaochang (Five Corners)
-- For those of you at the Changyang Hotel in
the northeast of the city, Wujiaochang now offers nearly all the
standard Chinese night activities, at student-prices. (Tongji and Fudan
universities are nearby.) Here you may find restaurants, tea houses,
bars, a disco or two, KFC and McD's, and street vendors of all sorts.
TRANSPORTATION:
Buses
-- are cheapest of course, but packed, dirty, slow, and the
playgrounds of skilled pickpockets. English will not get you far with
the conductors.
The Subway
-- is the best bargain - clean, fast, and quiet, it runs
from the train station in the north past People's Square, along Huaihai
Road, through Xujiahui to Jinjiang Amusement Park. Stops are announced
in English as well as Chinese.
Tricycle-Cabs
-- Contrary to their appearance, these things are NOT
cheap, often even more expensive than the taxis. In accordance with
their appearance, they ARE relatively unsafe in traffic.
Taxis
-- Minimum cost of a taxi is 10 RMB. ALL taxis use meters.
Walking
-- Central Shanghai is not so big. If you don't mind walking,
do it! What are saving your time for, watching Chinese TV in your hotel
room? Get some street-level stimulation, and exercise to boot.
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